Mera Peak Climbing

MERA is the highest ‘trekking peak’ in Nepal. A trekking peak is defined thus by Nepal Government; permit and climbing fee are required. It is a tough yet spectacular passage into the seldom visited Makalu Barun National Park. The summit offers panoramic views; Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Amadablam to the northwest and Makalu, Kanchanjunga and dozen other peaks to the northeast. Mera Peak does not require technical rock-climbing expertise but calls for a proficient level of general fitness especially in view of the high altitude conditions. A careful acclimatisation profile for the climb is of great value as is en route training in glacier walking technique for the ascent is over ice fields and crevasses. Summit day involves 500m of steep roped-up, cramponed, ascent.

In fact three peaks combine to make up Mt Mera; Mera South (6065m), Mera Central (6461m) and Mera North (6476m). Our target summit is Mera Central.

The Mera Peak Climbing starts with a dramatic flight from Kathmandu to the small mountain airstrip at Lukla, in the heart of the Khumbu/Everest region. The trek then begins by skirting to the south of Lukla before crossing two quite low passes to join the Inkhu Valley. This river valley is isolated and rarely sees visitors. With an eye always on altitude acclimatization, we follow the river north towards Upper Inkhu. Eventually, the forests give way to alpine meadow, and by the yak pastures of Thangnak. The valley has widened out to offer impressive views of the west face of Mera Peak and Peak 43, and being in this classic high Himalayan valley has a rare sense of splendid isolation.

From Thangnak, we head in an easterly direction towards the moraine of the Dig Glacier, and then make a steep ascent to Khare (4896m).  Base Camp is set up above here at around 5400m – near the ‘Mera La’ Pass (5415m). Here we use a ‘spare day’ provided to allow for possible dodgy weather and acclimatisation and/or to practice mountain skills before moving on to establish High Camp on one edge of the Mera Glacier. Our ascent up the glacier requires use of crampons and ropes, and calling for a keen eye and a prodding ice axe to detect possible crevasses. With conditions favourable, we will make our summit push from here.

Long before dawn on summit day, we will have left High Camp to negotiate the upper glacier to reach the first false summit by sun-up. We’ll continue steadily onwards and upwards towards the Central Summit holding enough in reserve for the seriously breath-taking, seriously steep, final ascent. Although physically demanding, the mountaineering itself is actually graded’ easy’. From the summit is the most spectacular 360deg roof-of-the-World panorama. With vistas to take away what little breath you have left, you are likely to be lost for words! When we descend it will be down to Khare, to be greeted in camp by the support crew with all the most essential creature comforts.

• Airport pick up and transfer to hotel
• 2 star hotel in Kathmandu on twin sharing room with breakfast
• Welcome and Farewell dinner in Kathmandu at one of the typical Nepalese local restaurant
• A Day rock climbing course in Kathmandu or guided city tour of Kathmandu valley
• Required private transport at Kathmandu
• Kathmandu- Lukla- Kathmandu flight, airport taxes and transfer
• 13 nights/ 14 Days Mera Peak Climbing,accommodation on Tea House(1 to 2 peoples) & on tented camp(above 3) with full board of meals & boiled drinking water(3 ltrs)
• Mera Peak Climbing special climbing permit/s
• Necessary group climbing gears- Main & fixed rope, ice crew, snow bar etc
• One Advanced Adventures Climbing Leader(English speaking, first aid trained, climbing trained from NMA), the cost of camping and trekkers crew/ insurance/s
• Advanced Adventure duffle bag & T- shorts
• Gamow Bag for the security measure- provided on request at the group of 4 or above
• Medical kit bag
• All necessary Gov. Taxes and service charges

• Nepal Visa fees, intl. airfare in/out Nepal
• Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu except welcome & Farewell dinner & breakfast
• Personal climbing equipment (Ice Axe, Crampons, Harness, Zoomer, Descender, Carbines & climbing boots etc.- Possible to buy or hire in Kathmandu)
• Travel and rescue insurance
• Personal nature expenses- phone calls, laundry, hot shower, bar bills, cold beverages etc.
• Personal tipping-
• Cost of any extending trips
• All prices are in US dollars and do not include international airfare, unless otherwise noted.